TPI, Tooth Patterns & Blade Geometry: How to Read a Saw Blade Like a Pro (2026)

Every saw blade has numbers stamped on it — 24T, 80T, 5/8 TPI, ATB, TCG. If those look like random codes, you’re not alone. But understanding what they mean is the difference between a clean cut and a splintered mess. Or worse, a dangerous kickback that sends a workpiece flying across your shop.

This guide breaks down every specification you’ll find on a saw blade package — from TPI and tooth count to hook angles and kerf width. We’ll cover circular saw blades, miter saw blades, table saw blades, reciprocating saw blades, jigsaw blades, band saw blades, and oscillating tool blades. By the end, you’ll be able to walk into any hardware store, pick up a blade, and know exactly what it will — and won’t — do well. If you’re looking for specific blade recommendations, check out our Best Saw Blades 2026 roundup after reading this.

The Numbers on Your Blade: Quick Decoder

Before we dive deep, here’s a cheat sheet for every spec you’ll encounter on a blade package. Bookmark this table — it’ll save you a lot of squinting at packaging in the blade aisle.

Specification	What It Means	What It Affects	Example
Tooth Count (T)	Total number of teeth on the blade	Cut quality vs speed	24T = fast/rough, 80T = slow/clean
TPI (Teeth Per Inch)	Teeth per inch of blade length	Cut quality, material suitability	6 TPI = wood, 24 TPI = metal
Hook Angle	Forward/backward lean of teeth	Aggressiveness, safety	+20° = aggressive, -5° = controlled
Kerf	Width of the cut the blade makes	Material waste, power needed	Full kerf = 1/8″, thin kerf = 3/32″
Tooth Grind	Shape of each tooth tip	Cut finish, material compatibility	ATB = crosscut, FTG = rip, TCG = laminate
Tooth Set	How teeth are offset from center	Kerf width, cut finish	Alternate = wide cut, wavy = smooth metal

Tooth count (T) is used for circular, miter, and table saw blades. TPI is used for reciprocating, jigsaw, and band saw blades. Different measurement systems, same core concept.

TPI: The Most Important Number on Any Blade

TPI — teeth per inch — is the single most important specification on any blade. It tells you one fundamental thing: how many teeth contact the material within each inch of blade travel. And from that single number, you can predict almost everything about the cut.

The Universal Rule

Fewer teeth means faster, rougher cuts. More teeth means slower, cleaner cuts. This applies to every saw blade ever made, from a 3 TPI demolition recip blade to an 80-tooth fine-finish miter saw blade. It’s the one rule that never changes.

Here’s why: each tooth removes a small chip of material. Fewer teeth means bigger chips, faster material removal, but a rougher surface. More teeth means smaller chips, a smoother surface, but slower cutting speed because the blade has to work harder to clear all those tiny chips.

TPI Ranges for Different Materials

TPI Range	Best For	Cut Quality	Common Applications
3-6 TPI	Thick wood, demolition	Very rough	Framing, pruning, demo with nails
8-14 TPI	General purpose wood, thin metal	Moderate	Remodeling, general cutting, sheet metal
18-24 TPI	Metal cutting, fine wood finish	Smooth	Metal pipe, conduit, tubing, hardwood trim
24+ TPI	Thin sheet metal, precision cuts	Very smooth	Metal studs, thin-wall tubing, aluminum

The key rule for metal: you always want at least 3 teeth in contact with the material at any time. That’s why thin metals need high TPI — if you use a 6 TPI blade on sheet metal, the teeth straddle the material and rip it instead of cutting it. For a deep dive into which recip blades work best for metal demolition, see our Best Reciprocating Saw Blades 2026 guide.

For Circular, Miter, and Table Saws: Tooth Count, Not TPI

Here’s where it gets slightly different. Round blades — circular saws, miter saws, and table saws — use total tooth count instead of TPI. But the same principle applies: fewer teeth = faster and rougher, more teeth = slower and cleaner.

Tooth Count	Blade Type	Best For	Cut Quality
24T	Framing blade	Ripping through 2x4s, plywood sheathing	Rough — splinters on crosscuts
40T	General purpose	The “one blade for everything” choice	Good enough for most DIY work
60T	Fine crosscut	Clean cuts in plywood, hardwood, softwood	Smooth — minimal sanding needed
80-100T	Ultra fine finish	Trim work, melamine, veneers, laminate	Near-polished — zero tearout

Here’s the practical takeaway: if you own one circular saw and do general DIY work, a 40-tooth blade handles 90% of what you’ll throw at it. But when you’re cutting oak for a bookshelf project and need zero tearout, that’s when you swap to a 60T or 80T blade. The Diablo D0740A 40T general purpose blade (~$12) is the one I keep on my circular saw by default — it handles crosscuts, rip cuts, and plywood without complaint.

For framing and rough carpentry, the Diablo D0724A 24T framing blade (~$9) rips through dimensional lumber like butter. It’s thin-kerf, which means less drag on cordless saws — and that matters when you’re running a cordless circular saw on battery power.

When you need glass-smooth crosscuts for trim work, step up to the Diablo D1080X 10″ 80T Hi-ATB blade (~$38). This is the blade finish carpenters swear by for crown molding, baseboards, and veneer plywood. Put it on a quality miter saw and the cuts come out nearly polished.

Tooth Grind Types: ATB vs FTG vs TCG

Tooth count tells you how many teeth are on the blade. Tooth grind tells you what shape those teeth are. And the shape determines what materials the blade cuts well — and what it destroys.

ATB (Alternate Top Bevel)

The most common grind on woodworking blades. Each tooth is ground at an alternating angle — one leans left, the next leans right. This creates a shearing action that slices cleanly across wood fibers, which is why ATB blades excel at crosscutting. The bevel angle varies from 10° to 25° — steeper angles give cleaner cuts but dull faster.

You’ll find ATB grinds on most 40T, 60T, and general-purpose blades. If a blade just says “crosscut” or “finish,” it’s almost certainly ATB.

FTG (Flat Top Grind)

Each tooth is flat across the top — no bevel, no angle. FTG teeth act like tiny chisels, scooping out material in a straight line. This makes them extremely efficient for ripping (cutting along the grain), because rip cuts don’t need the shearing action that crosscuts do.

The downside: FTG leaves a rougher surface than ATB because those flat teeth tear through fibers rather than slicing them. A 24T FTG rip blade will fly through a board lengthwise, but you’ll need to sand the edge afterward. That’s the trade-off — speed for finish.

TCG (Triple Chip Grind)

TCG alternates between two tooth shapes: a chamfered (trapezoid) tooth that scores the material, followed by a flat raker tooth that cleans out the kerf. This two-step cutting action is ideal for hard, abrasive, and brittle materials — MDF, melamine, laminate countertops, non-ferrous metals like aluminum and brass.

If you’re cutting a lot of laminate flooring or aluminum extrusions, TCG is the grind you want. It won’t chip the surface layer the way an ATB blade might, and the alternating tooth design handles the heat buildup that dense materials generate.

Hi-ATB (High Alternate Top Bevel)

Same concept as standard ATB, but with a much steeper bevel angle — typically 30° to 40° instead of the standard 15° to 20°. The steeper angle creates a razor-like slicing action that produces near-polished cuts in veneered plywood, melamine, and delicate hardwoods.

The trade-off: Hi-ATB teeth are more fragile and dull faster because there’s less carbide behind the cutting edge. These are specialty blades for finish work, not everyday use. The Diablo D1080X mentioned earlier uses a Hi-ATB grind — that’s why it produces such clean cuts in trim work.

Combo (4+1)

Combination blades group teeth in sets of five: four ATB teeth followed by one FTG raker tooth, separated by a deep gullet. The idea is a single blade that can both crosscut and rip without swapping. The ATB teeth handle crosscuts; the FTG raker cleans out rip cuts.

Does it work? Sort of. A combo blade does everything decently but nothing perfectly. If you’re a hobbyist with one table saw and you don’t want to swap blades constantly, a 50T combo blade is a reasonable compromise. But it won’t rip as fast as a dedicated 24T rip blade or crosscut as cleanly as a dedicated 80T finish blade.

When Each Grind Matters

Grind Type	Best Application	Cut Quality	Durability	Common Tooth Counts
ATB	Crosscuts in solid wood, plywood	Clean	Good	40T, 60T
FTG	Ripping along the grain	Rough	Excellent	24T
TCG	Laminate, MDF, non-ferrous metal	Clean	Excellent	60T, 80T
Hi-ATB	Veneered plywood, melamine, trim	Polished	Fair	80T, 100T
Combo	General purpose (rip + crosscut)	Good	Good	50T

Hook Angle: Aggressive vs Controlled Cuts

Hook angle (also called rake angle) is the tilt of each tooth relative to the center of the blade. It’s measured in degrees, and it has a massive impact on how the blade behaves — and how safe it is to use.

Positive Hook Angle (15° to 22°)

A positive hook angle means the teeth lean forward, toward the direction of cut. This creates an aggressive, self-feeding action — the blade pulls the material into itself. Positive hook blades cut fast and require less pushing force from the operator.

This is standard on circular saw blades designed for handheld use. When you’re holding a circular saw and pushing it through a 2×4, you want the blade helping you feed the material. The Diablo 24T framing blade has a 15° positive hook for exactly this reason.

Zero Hook Angle (0°)

Zero hook is neutral — the teeth are straight up and down, neither pulling material in nor pushing it away. You’ll find this on radial arm saw blades and some general-purpose blades. It gives a controlled cut without any self-feeding tendency.

Negative Hook Angle (-2° to -6°)

A negative hook angle means the teeth lean backward, away from the cut direction. This creates a pushing action — the blade pushes the material away instead of pulling it in. This is standard on miter saw blades and sliding miter saw blades.

Why this matters for safety: On a miter saw, the blade comes down into the material. If you use a positive-hook blade, the teeth grab the workpiece and try to climb over it or throw it toward you. With a negative hook, the blade pushes the material down onto the table, keeping the cut controlled. Always check the hook angle when buying miter saw blades. For blade recommendations matched to specific miter saws, see our Best Miter Saws 2026 guide.

Matching Hook Angle to Your Saw

Saw Type	Recommended Hook Angle	Why
Circular Saw (handheld)	+15° to +22°	Self-feeding assists manual push
Table Saw (ripping)	+15° to +20°	Aggressive feed for long rip cuts
Table Saw (crosscut)	+5° to +15°	Moderate feed, cleaner finish
Miter Saw	-2° to -6°	Prevents climbing and kickback
Sliding Miter Saw	-2° to -6°	Even more critical — blade travels forward
Radial Arm Saw	-5° to -10°	Blade moves toward operator — must resist self-feed

Safety warning: Using a positive-hook circular saw blade on a miter saw is one of the most common — and most dangerous — mistakes DIYers make. The blade grabs the material and can throw it at you, or pull the saw forward violently. Always check the hook angle printed on the blade before mounting it.

Kerf Width: Full vs Thin

Kerf is the width of the slot the blade cuts into the material. It’s determined by how far the teeth are set (offset) from the blade body, or how wide the carbide tips are. And it matters more than most people think.

Full Kerf (~1/8″ or 3.2mm)

Full-kerf blades have a wider cut and stiffer blade body. The thicker plate resists deflection, which means straighter cuts and less wobble. But they also remove more material and require more power to spin through the cut.

Use full-kerf blades on powerful saws — cabinet table saws with 3+ HP motors, beefy corded miter saws, and contractor saws with enough torque to not bog down.

Thin Kerf (~3/32″ or 2.4mm)

Thin-kerf blades remove less material per cut, which means less resistance and less power needed. They’re the standard choice for cordless saws, benchtop table saws, and portable miter saws where motor power is limited.

The trade-off: a thinner blade plate is slightly more prone to vibration and deflection, especially in thick hardwoods. For most DIY work, you’ll never notice the difference. But a cabinet maker ripping 2″ oak all day will prefer the stability of a full-kerf blade.

When to Use Each

Kerf Type	Thickness	Power Needed	Best For
Full Kerf	~1/8″ (0.098″)	3+ HP, 15A corded	Cabinet table saws, contractor miter saws
Thin Kerf	~3/32″ (0.059″-0.071″)	Any power level	Cordless saws, benchtop saws, portable saws

The DEWALT DWA171460 7-1/4″ 60T blade (~$15) is a thin-kerf design that’s specifically built for cordless circular saws — it delivers clean crosscuts without overtaxing your battery. Compare that to a full-kerf 60T blade on the same cordless saw, and you’ll notice the motor straining and the battery draining twice as fast. Kerf width matters.

Gullet Size: Why Chip Clearance Matters

The gullet is the valley between each tooth — the space where cut material (chips, sawdust, or metal shavings) sits before being ejected from the cut. Gullet size is directly related to tooth count: fewer teeth means bigger gullets, more teeth means smaller gullets.

This is why a 24T blade rips through 2x4s so fast — the massive gullets clear chips efficiently, preventing heat buildup. And it’s why trying to rip thick lumber with an 80T blade causes burning — the tiny gullets pack with sawdust, friction skyrockets, and the wood chars.

For deep cuts (anything over 2″ in wood), prioritize blades with larger gullets. For shallow, precise cuts in thin material, gullet size matters less. The combo (4+1) grind pattern uses oversized gullets between each group of 5 teeth specifically to aid chip clearance during rip cuts.

Tooth Set Patterns for Recip, Jigsaw, and Band Saw Blades

Circular saw blades are rigid discs — the carbide tips define the kerf. But reciprocating saw blades, jigsaw blades, and band saw blades are flexible strips of steel. They use a completely different system: tooth set — the way teeth are bent outward from the blade body — to create kerf and prevent binding.

Alternate Set

Each tooth is bent alternately left, then right. This creates the widest kerf of any set pattern and clears chips aggressively. Alternate set is the standard for wood-cutting recip and jigsaw blades. If you’re cutting framing lumber, nail-embedded wood, or tree branches, alternate set is what you want.

Wavy Set

Instead of individual teeth bending left/right, groups of teeth gradually undulate in a wave pattern. This creates a narrower, smoother kerf than alternate set. Wavy set is the go-to for cutting thin metals — conduit, sheet metal, metal studs — because it prevents the blade from grabbing and chattering on thin stock.

Raker Set

Three-tooth repeating pattern: one tooth bent left, one bent right, one straight (the raker). The raker tooth cleans out the kerf while the set teeth do the cutting. Raker set is designed for cutting thicker metals — structural steel, cast iron, heavy pipe — where chip clearance in dense material is critical.

TPI Guidelines for Recip and Jigsaw Blades

TPI	Tooth Set	Material	Application
3-5 TPI	Alternate	Thick wood, branches	Pruning, rough demo, timber
6-8 TPI	Alternate	Wood with nails	Demolition, remodeling
10-14 TPI	Alternate/Raker	Wood, thick metal	General purpose, heavy metal
18-24 TPI	Wavy	Metal pipe, conduit	Plumbing, electrical, HVAC
24+ TPI	Wavy	Thin sheet metal	Metal studs, flashing, ductwork

For demolition work, the Diablo DS0612BW5 6″ 6/12 TPI recip blades (~$12 for 5-pack) are the demo crew favorite — the variable tooth design (alternating 6 and 12 TPI) handles nail-embedded wood without skipping a beat. For metal cutting, the LENOX 20564 6″ 14 TPI metal blades (~$10 for 5-pack) have been the industry standard for decades — the bi-metal construction handles heat buildup that kills cheaper blades.

For Milwaukee users, the Milwaukee SAWZALL 16-piece metal cutting set (~$25 at Home Depot) includes blades from 14 TPI to 24 TPI — covering everything from thick pipe to thin conduit in one kit.

On a budget? The HYCHIKA 32-piece recip blade set (~$20) gives you 22 wood blades and 10 metal blades with a storage case. They won’t last as long as Diablo or LENOX, but for occasional DIY use, they’re surprisingly capable. And the WORKPRO 25-piece jigsaw blade set (~$13) covers wood, metal, and plastic with HCS, HSS, and BIM blades — ideal for someone just getting started with a jigsaw.

Band Saw Blades

Band saws use the same TPI and tooth set concepts as recip blades, but with one big difference: blade width. Wider band saw blades (1/2″ to 1″) track straighter and handle resawing thick stock. Narrow blades (1/8″ to 1/4″) follow tight curves. The TPI principles stay the same — 3-6 TPI for thick wood, 14-24 TPI for metal.

Oscillating Tool Blades

Oscillating multi-tool blades are a different animal — they cut with a rapid side-to-side oscillation rather than spinning or reciprocating. TPI still matters (wood blades run 14-18 TPI, metal blades run 18-24+ TPI), but blade material and tooth design are equally important. For a complete breakdown, see our Best Oscillating Multi-Tool Blades 2026 guide.

Blade Selection Cheat Sheet

This is the table to save on your phone. Next time you’re standing in front of a wall of blades, pull this up and match your project to the right specs.

Project	Tooth Count/TPI	Grind Type	Hook Angle	Kerf	Recommended Blade
Framing lumber (2×4, 2×6)	24T	ATB or FTG	+15° to +20°	Thin	Diablo D0724A 24T
Plywood crosscut	60T	ATB	+5° to +15°	Thin or Full	Diablo D1060X 10″ 60T
Hardwood rip cuts	24-30T	FTG	+15° to +20°	Full	Dedicated FTG rip blade
Melamine/laminate	80T	TCG or Hi-ATB	-2° to +10°	Full	Diablo D1080X 10″ 80T
Metal studs (recip)	18-24 TPI	Wavy set	N/A	N/A	LENOX 24 TPI metal blade
Deck boards (crosscut)	40-60T	ATB	+10° to +15°	Thin	Diablo D0740A 40T
Trim/molding (miter saw)	80-100T	Hi-ATB	-2° to -6°	Full	Diablo D12100X 12″ 100T
Demolition (wood + nails)	6-10 TPI	Alternate set	N/A	N/A	Diablo DS0612BW5 6/12 TPI

Prices approximate as of February 2026. T = tooth count for circular/miter/table saw blades. TPI = teeth per inch for recip/jigsaw/band saw blades.

Common Mistakes That Ruin Your Cuts

After 20+ years of replacing blades and fixing botched cuts, these are the mistakes I see over and over. Avoid them and your cuts improve overnight.

1. Using a 24T Framing Blade for Plywood

This is the most common one. You build your framing with a 24T blade (correct), then cut your plywood sheathing with the same blade (terrible idea). Those big, aggressive teeth tear through the thin veneer layers like a dog through wrapping paper. Swap to a 40T or 60T before cutting plywood. The 30 seconds it takes to change the blade saves you from splintered edges and wasted material.

2. Using a Positive-Hook Blade on a Miter Saw

We covered this above, but it bears repeating because it’s genuinely dangerous. A positive-hook circular saw blade will grab the material on a miter saw and can kick it back at you. Always use a negative-hook blade on a miter saw — period. Check the package or the blade printing for hook angle before installing.

3. Using a Fine-Tooth Metal Blade on Thick Wood

Putting an 18 TPI metal blade on your recip saw to cut lumber seems like it would give you a cleaner cut. What actually happens: the tiny teeth can’t clear chips fast enough, the blade overheats, the wood burns, and the blade dulls in minutes. Use 3-8 TPI for wood, 18+ TPI for metal. Don’t mix them up. If you need recommendations, our saw blade roundup has picks sorted by material.

4. Never Cleaning Resin and Pitch Off Your Blades

After cutting pine, pressure-treated wood, or any resinous species, pitch builds up on the blade teeth and body. This gunk increases friction, reduces cutting performance, and causes burning. A $5 bottle of blade cleaner (or even Simple Green) and an old toothbrush will restore a gummed-up blade to near-new performance. Clean your blades after every major project.

5. Running Full-Kerf Blades on Cordless Saws

Full-kerf blades demand more power than thin-kerf. If your cordless circular saw or battery-powered miter saw bogs down, strains, or drains batteries abnormally fast, check the kerf width. Most cordless circular saws are designed for thin-kerf blades — running a full-kerf blade on them is like putting truck tires on a sedan.

6. Using the Same Jigsaw Blade for Everything

Jigsaw blades are cheap. There’s no reason to use the same 10 TPI blade for cutting plywood, metal conduit, and ceramic tile. Each material needs its own TPI and tooth design. A Bosch T5002 10-piece jigsaw blade set (~$12) gives you the right blade for wood, metal, and scrollwork — keep it in your jigsaw case and swap blades for each material.