Router Bits for Beginners: The Complete Selection Guide (2026)
TL;DR: A router without the right bits is just an expensive noisemaker. Start with a quality 7-piece or 10-piece set to learn what each profile does, then buy individual premium bits as your projects demand them. Always buy 1/2″ shank when your router accepts it, always buy carbide-tipped, and don’t cheap out on bits you’ll use every day.
| Category | Our Pick | Why It Wins | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Best Overall Set | Freud 91-100 13-Piece | TiCo carbide, great variety, 1/2″ shank | ~$110 |
| Best American-Made | Whiteside 401 7-Piece | Made in USA, tight tolerances, pro quality | ~$85 |
| Best Mid-Range | Bosch RBS010 10-Piece | Micrograin carbide, mixed shanks, good case | ~$50 |
| Best Budget Starter | SKIL RTB7501 15-Piece | Most variety per dollar, decent for learning | ~$30 |
Router Bit Types: What Each One Actually Does
Before you buy anything, you need to know what profiles exist and what they’re used for. Here’s every bit type a beginner should know about, in order of how often you’ll actually reach for them.
| Bit Type | What It Cuts | Common Uses | Bearing Guided? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight/Mortising | Flat-bottomed grooves and dadoes | Shelving dadoes, rabbets, mortises, flattening | No |
| Flush Trim | Trims edge flush to template | Template routing, trimming laminate, pattern work | Yes (bottom) |
| Roundover | Rounded edge profile | Softening sharp edges, tabletops, shelves | Yes |
| Chamfer | 45-degree angled edge | Decorative edges, modern look, breaking sharp corners | Yes |
| Cove | Concave (scoop) profile | Decorative edges, crown molding, trim profiles | Yes |
| Rabbeting | Stepped shoulder cut | Picture frame backs, cabinet backs, panel insets | Yes |
| Dovetail | Angled slot for dovetail joints | Dovetail joinery, sliding dovetail dadoes | No |
| Roman Ogee | S-curve decorative profile | Traditional furniture edges, decorative trim | Yes |
| V-Groove | V-shaped channel | Sign making, lettering, decorative lines | No |
| Core Box (Round Nose) | Round-bottomed groove | Fluting, decorative channels, sign carving | No |
The 5 Bits Every Beginner Needs First
Don’t try to buy everything at once. These five bits will handle 80% of beginner projects. Master these before branching out.
1. Straight Bit (1/2″ diameter)
This is your bread and butter. Straight bits cut flat-bottomed grooves (dadoes), rabbets, and mortises. You’ll use this for shelving, box joints, and any time you need to remove material in a controlled, flat channel. Buy a 1/2″ diameter to start — it’s the most versatile size. A 1/4″ straight bit is your second purchase for narrower grooves.
2. Flush Trim Bit
A flush trim bit has a bearing on the bottom (or top) that rides along a template or existing edge while the cutter trims the workpiece flush to it. This is how template routing works, and it’s how you make multiple identical pieces. Also essential for trimming edge banding and laminate. Once you discover template routing, you’ll wonder how you lived without this bit.
3. Roundover Bit (1/4″ or 3/8″ radius)
Rounds over sharp edges to create a smooth, comfortable profile. A 1/4″ roundover is subtle — just enough to soften an edge so it doesn’t feel sharp. A 3/8″ roundover creates a more pronounced rounded edge. Use it on tabletops, shelves, cutting boards, and anything people will touch. This is probably the bit you’ll use most for decorative work.
4. Chamfer Bit (45-degree)
Creates a clean angled edge instead of a round one. Chamfers give projects a more modern, geometric look compared to roundovers. Also useful for creating beveled edges on panels and breaking sharp corners on workpieces. One 45-degree chamfer bit with adjustable depth covers everything.
5. Rabbeting Bit
Cuts a stepped shoulder along an edge. This is how you create the recess for a picture frame back, a cabinet back panel, or an inset door. Many rabbeting bits come with a set of interchangeable bearings that change the rabbet width — that’s the one to buy.
Shank Size: Why 1/2″ Beats 1/4″ Every Time
Router bits come in two shank sizes: 1/4″ and 1/2″. The shank is the smooth part that goes into the collet (the clamp that holds the bit in your router).
Always buy 1/2″ shank bits when your router accepts them. Here’s why:
- Less vibration: A 1/2″ shank is 4x stiffer than a 1/4″ shank (stiffness increases with the fourth power of diameter). Less vibration means smoother cuts and less chatter marks.
- Better grip: More surface area in the collet means the bit is less likely to slip, especially under heavy loads.
- Longer life: Less vibration means less stress on the carbide, which means the cutting edges last longer.
- Safer: A 1/2″ bit is less likely to deflect or break under load, especially with larger bit diameters.
The only reason to buy 1/4″ shank bits is if your router only accepts 1/4″ collets (some compact/trim routers), or for very small detail bits that don’t come in 1/2″ shank.
HSS vs Carbide-Tipped vs Solid Carbide
The cutting edges of router bits are made from different materials. This matters more than most beginners realize.
HSS (High-Speed Steel)
Cheap, dulls fast, and can’t handle hardwoods or man-made materials like MDF and plywood without burning out quickly. The only use case is soft wood routing on a very tight budget. Don’t buy HSS bits — you’ll replace them constantly.
Carbide-Tipped (The Sweet Spot)
Tungsten carbide tips brazed onto a steel body. This is what 95% of quality router bits use. Carbide stays sharp 10-15x longer than HSS, handles all wood species, plywood, MDF, and even some plastics. Buy carbide-tipped for everything.
Within carbide-tipped, quality varies by carbide grade. Freud’s TiCo (Titanium Cobalt) carbide and Whiteside’s micrograin carbide are premium grades that hold an edge noticeably longer than generic carbide tips.
Solid Carbide
The entire bit is carbide. Extremely hard, extremely sharp, extremely expensive, and extremely brittle. Used for CNC work, composites, and specialty applications. Overkill for hand-held routing and risky because they can shatter if you catch a knot or make an aggressive cut.
Router Speed Settings by Bit Diameter
Bigger bits spin faster at the edge, which creates more heat and more risk of burning. Every router with variable speed should be adjusted based on bit diameter. Here are the recommended maximum speeds:
| Bit Diameter | Max Speed (RPM) |
|---|---|
| Up to 1″ | 24,000 |
| 1″ to 1-1/4″ | 22,000 |
| 1-1/4″ to 2″ | 18,000 |
| 2″ to 2-1/2″ | 16,000 |
| 2-1/2″ to 3-1/2″ | 12,000 |
Running a large bit too fast is dangerous. The centrifugal force on a 3″ raised panel bit at 24,000 RPM is enormous. Follow these guidelines and always start slower if you’re unsure. Burned wood means too fast. Chatter marks mean too slow or too much material in one pass. If you’re working with saw blades on the same project, similar speed-matching principles apply.
The Reviews: 4 Router Bit Sets Ranked
Freud 91-100: Best Overall for Beginners
The Good: Freud doesn’t mess around with carbide quality. Their TiCo (Titanium Cobalt) carbide is harder and denser than standard carbide, which means these bits stay sharp noticeably longer. The 13-piece set covers all the essentials: straight bits, roundover, chamfer, cove, flush trim, V-groove, dovetail, and Roman ogee. All 1/2″ shank. The shadow box case is actually useful — hang it on the wall and you can see every bit at a glance.
The Not-So-Good: At around $110, it’s the priciest set here. The roundover is only one size (you’ll eventually want a 1/4″ and a 3/8″). No rabbeting bit included, which is a strange omission for a 13-piece “super” set.
Bottom Line: The best combination of carbide quality and bit variety for beginners. These bits will last years of weekend woodworking. Worth the investment if you plan to actually use your router regularly.
Whiteside 401: Best American-Made Quality
The Good: Made in Claremont, North Carolina. Whiteside bits have a reputation for insanely tight tolerances — the bearings are smooth, the carbide is sharp out of the box, and the cuts are noticeably cleaner than cheaper alternatives. The 7-piece set includes the bits you’ll actually use most: 1/4″ straight, 1/2″ straight, 3/8″ roundover, 3/8″ x 1/2″ rabbet, 3/8″ cove, 45-degree chamfer, and 1/2″ flush trim. Every bit is 1/2″ shank.
The Not-So-Good: Only 7 pieces, so you’re missing decorative profiles like Roman ogee, dovetail, and V-groove. At ~$85 for 7 bits, the per-bit cost is the highest on this list. But you’re paying for American craftsmanship and carbide that keeps its edge.
Bottom Line: If you want the best-cutting bits in a no-nonsense starter set, this is it. You’ll add individual bits over time, but these seven will never let you down.
Bosch RBS010: Best Mid-Range Value
The Good: Bosch delivers solid engineering at a reasonable price. The 10-piece set includes a mix of 1/4″ and 1/2″ shank bits with micrograin carbide tips. Good variety: straight bits, roundover, cove, chamfer, flush trim, dovetail, and a Roman ogee. The case keeps everything organized. At around $50, it’s a lot of router bit for the money.
The Not-So-Good: Mixed shank sizes (some 1/4″, some 1/2″) means you’re switching collets more often. The carbide quality is good but not Freud or Whiteside level — you’ll notice faster dulling on hardwoods. The bearing quality on the edge-forming bits is adequate but not premium.
Bottom Line: The smart buy for beginners who aren’t sure how deep they’ll get into routing. Good enough quality that you won’t be frustrated, low enough price that you won’t feel burned if routing isn’t your thing. A solid companion to your cordless drill in the shop.
SKIL RTB7501: Best Budget Starter
The Good: At around $30 for 15 bits, this is the cheapest way to try every profile type. You get straight bits (1/4″, 1/2″, 3/4″), roundovers, coves, a dovetail, V-groove, core box, chamfer, rabbeting, and Roman ogee. Heat-treated shanks and carbide tips. Comes in an interlocking case. For learning what each bit does and figuring out which profiles you’ll use most, you can’t beat the value.
The Not-So-Good: 1/4″ shank only, which means more vibration and less cutting stability. The carbide tips aren’t premium grade — expect faster dulling, especially on hardwoods and plywood. The bearings are functional but not silky smooth. These bits will work for soft woods and occasional use, but serious woodworkers will outgrow them.
Bottom Line: Buy this set to learn. Figure out which bits you actually use, then replace those with Freud or Whiteside individual bits in 1/2″ shank. No shame in the SKIL set as a starting point — just know it’s a stepping stone.
Buying Guide: What to Look For
Carbide Grade Matters More Than Piece Count
A 7-piece set with premium carbide will outperform a 30-piece set with cheap carbide. Don’t be seduced by high piece counts. You’re buying cutting performance, not a collection.
Ball Bearings vs Bushings
Edge-forming bits use bearings to guide the cut. Sealed ball bearings spin smoothly and don’t burn the wood. Cheap bushings create friction and can leave burn marks on your workpiece. Check the bearing quality before you buy.
Anti-Kickback Design
Some bits have a body design that limits the maximum bite the bit can take. This reduces the chance of kickback (the router suddenly jerking when it catches). Freud and Bosch include anti-kickback features on many of their bits. Worth looking for, especially on larger diameter bits.
Buy Individual Bits for Specialty Work
Sets get you started. But the bits you use most should eventually be upgraded to the best individual bits you can afford. A single premium 1/2″ straight bit from Whiteside or Freud will be your most-used tool in the shop. Worth every penny. For other drill and bit set recommendations, check our dedicated guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do router bits last?
Carbide-tipped bits last 50-100 hours of actual cutting time, depending on what you’re cutting. Hardwoods and plywood dull bits faster than softwoods. MDF is the worst — the glue in MDF is abrasive and eats carbide. You’ll know a bit is dull when you see burn marks, hear the router working harder, or feel more vibration than usual. Most bits can be professionally resharpened 2-3 times before the carbide is too thin.
Can I use a router bit in a drill press?
No. Router bits spin at 10,000-24,000 RPM. A drill press runs at 500-3,000 RPM. At drill press speeds, a router bit will catch and kick back violently. Additionally, drill presses aren’t designed for the lateral forces that routing creates. Use a router for router bits, period.
What’s the difference between climb cutting and conventional cutting?
Conventional cutting (feeding against the bit’s rotation) is safer and gives you more control. Climb cutting (feeding with the rotation) produces a slightly cleaner edge on figured wood but can grab the workpiece violently if you’re not careful. Beginners should always use conventional cutting direction. Climb cutting is an advanced technique for specific situations.
Should I buy a router table?
If you’re using edge-forming bits (roundover, chamfer, cove, ogee) regularly, a router table makes everything easier, safer, and more consistent. You can also use straight bits in a table for dadoes and rabbets with a fence. For occasional use, handheld routing is fine. Once you’re routing weekly, a table is a worthwhile investment.
Why do my cuts have burn marks?
Three possible causes: the bit is dull (most common), you’re feeding too slowly (the bit sits in one spot and friction-heats the wood), or the RPM is too high for the bit diameter. Try increasing feed rate first. If burns persist, check the bit for dullness. If the carbide edge looks rounded instead of sharp under a magnifier, it’s time for a new bit or a resharpening.
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